Trucs et astuces pour la restauration des Indian

Partie cycle
1) Suspension arrière - Chief
2) Fuite aux embouts de canalisations d'huile
3) Enlever la rouille
4) Rayonnage
5) Enlever la rouille Part II

Moteur
1) Priming Oil Pump
2) Reducing Oil Change Mess
3) Torque Heads Without Removing Gas Tanks
3) Schebler Carb Applications

Transmission/Primary
1) Assemblage de la boite de vitesse sur le moteur

Electrical
1) Circuit Breaker Size

Frame

Chief Rear Shocks
Removing/Installing chrome covers on rear shocks of chiefs
Take radiator hose clamp of sufficient size
Wrap in tape to prevent scratching
Secure around cover
Tap up or down (as needed to remove or seat cover) by using drift,punch or plain screwdriver and hammer.
Be sure you have removed the allen inset screws holding the cover to the frame before trying to remove them!

Oil Line Fitting Leak
From: Wilson Plank, American Indian Specialists

Some of the oil lines (tank to pump, pump to sump) being produced today have the incorrect ferrule for the fitting in the pump and tank. The angle, and the size of this ferrule, cause the oil fittings to "weep". The natural reaction is to tighten them down, which will eventually cause the threads in the fitting nut to strip.

To stop this leak, you can get some electrical shrink tubing and shrink this over the ferrule. Care must be taken to completely cover the ferrule, and the excess must be trimmed at the ends of the ferrule so not to interfere with the nut, and not to overhang the end of the tube.

The shrink tubing acts as a deforming gasket, and will effectively seal the tubes. You do not need to excessivly tighten the fitting nuts when using this sealing method. To much tighening will cut thru the shrink tubing and allow it to leak.

Removing Rust From Parts
From : Gimpy Tony
To remove all traces of rust you should try Phosphoric acid. It sounds evil but mixed with water at about 20% acid to 80% H2o., it makes a great remover. Just soak the bits in the mixture for a 'while' and POW! there ya go. Hose down with clean water and it leaves a coating that once dry and brushed is perfect for painting.

Wheel Trueing
From Dave Thorpe :

Question : I just finished lacing wheel for my chief 47. Is there some tricks for trueing them without a trueing stand or is it impossible?

I take the axle and clamp it in a bench vise. I then get a piece of coat-hanger wire, make a loop in one end, and screw it to the bench through the loop with a sheet-metal screw and a flat washer. You can then bend the wire around close to the rim for a pointer. You really need to put some preload on the wheel bearings, so it's neat to have a piece of pipe with the ends machined flat, that just fits over the axle, and is long enough that you can tighten the nut down and preload the wheel bearings You can then put the pipe part in the vise jaws, and not mung up the axle.

Removing Rust Part II
From : Bevars Binnie
If it is rust that is sticking things together you could try a couple of old fashioned remedies. They both loosen rust, particularly where parts overlap. A good wire brushing will be needed afterwards to get everything clean. Don't use either treatment on parts that will trap liquid in places that you can't get at.
Add about a pound of Washing Soda (don't use Caustic Soda - it works, but is too harsh, hazardous, and can be death to any alloy parts) to a gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Connect the part you want to derust to the negative terminal of your 12V battery charger with a bit of copper wire and suspend it in the liquid. Connect a bit of scrap stainless to the positive terminal, and dangle it in the liquid. Use the stainless to regulate the current by immersing only enough of it to get the part gently fizzing. An hour or two will loosen the surface rust, but longer may be needed to get between surfaces. Give it a rinse and a wire brush (I use a rotary brush in the power hand drill) and it will be as clean as if you had blasted it.
I don't know what gas is given off, but assume it is hydrogen, so good ventialtion will be needed to avoid any risk of explosion. There may be a risk of hydrogen embrittlement, so a good long soak in a hot oven afterwards would do no harm. Maybe a chemical expert would like to comment and tell us what is going on.
The other (more gentle) treatment is to disolve about a pound of molasses (stuff they feed to horses etc, I buy it at a local Stock Agent) in a gallon of water, and drop the parts in to soak for a week or two. Don't know what this chemical reaction is, but do know that the mixture ferments and stinks, so use a covered bucket down the bottom of the garden. As it ages you will need to leave stuff in longer. Renew every six months or when the stink drives the wife and kids away. A good rinse and a wire brush brings it up like new.
It would pay to try on some scrap parts first, but I have used both methods with complete success, as have many others here in AUS. All at your own risk though!

Motor Section:

Priming Oil Pump
Use a plastic automotive gear oil container with the cone shaped screw-on top
Fill with motor oil
Connect to return line in tank using gas line rubber hose of appropriate size to slip on snugly over line and cone shaped cover
Squeeze bottle to pressure backfill oil pump.
Repeat this step if oil isn't circulating on startup.

Reducing Oil Change Mess
Use an automotive styled petcock(consult well stocked local hardware store for thread size, bring your oil plug)
Slip rubber gas line hose over petcock
Turn valve open, directing stream to container--no oily mess over engine !!
It helps to have engine warmed up to facilitate quicker flow of oil.

Torque Heads With Removing Gas Tanks
From: JW

I used a Sears combo open/socket 5/8" wrench, the kind has an open end on one side and a swivel socket on the other.

I used a 2 foot long piece of 1/8" x 2" steel bar, and used some steel hose clamps to secure the wrench to the bar. At a 2 foot distance from the center of the socket, I cut a small dimple in the side.

Then, I have a 50 lb pull spring scale, sort of like a fish scale only much bigger and very accurate. Using that, I'd get the socket on the head bolts, back them off a little to break the bind, then tighten them up by using the spring scale out at the 2 foot dimple to register 25 lbs. 2 ft x 25 lbs = 50 ft/lbs.

You can get to all but three of the head bolts with the 5/8 wrench. For the other three, use a 5/8" spark plug socket, that has a hex top on it so you can use a wrench there. Mine's a SK, that uses a 3/4" open end wrench. You could then use the hose clamps and secure the 3/4 wrench to the bar and do the same process.

When I get around to it, I'm going to get a piece of 1" dia x 1/8" wall steel tube, and weld the 5/8 socket wrench on one end and the 3/4" open end on the other and use that as the "in-bike head torque tool".

Schebler Carb Applications
From: Jerry H. Hatfield

Question : Does anyone have a complete list of Schebler carb applications for 1929 and up? I have the 1928 Schebler service station manual that lists all applications up to 1928 and a Linkert application list, but need the later application list. I have a Schebler DLX 60 and a DLX 86 I'd like to know what they are for

The 1932 and later Indian applications are listed in my book "Indian Motorcycle Restoration Guide, 1932-1953." According to my sources, DLX 60 and DLX 86 were not used on Indians. The nearest number (for an Indian application) to DLX 60 is DLX 51, as listed in your reference for 1928 use. The nearest numbers (for Indian applications) to DLX 86 are DLX 81 (1932 Chief) and DLX 98 (1933 Scout Pony). So it appears the DLX 86 was for a 1932 and/or 1933 Harley-Davidson. Harley didn't include the manufacturer's numbers (DLX entries, for example) in their 1928-1932 parts book. Late-1933 and later Harleys were fitted with Linkerts.

Transmission/Primary

1) Assemblage de la boite de vitesse sur le moteur
From: Bob courboin

I just updated the trans installation sheet.
As John Welsh correctly noted in my earlier post, the shoulder which stops the kicker gear spring cupped washer on the trans mainshaft must protrude past the output gear surface. But, I've reccommend that it not stick out too far. The farther it protrudes, the lower the clutch hub is in the drum and occasionaly the hub is too low to get the top steel clutch plate firmly on the hub. So the trick seems to be, to use the thrust washers that not only allow the shoulder to pass the gear, but also allow all the steels to be used. If the top steel lifts off the spline, it's a big problem.

Electrical

1) Circuit Breaker Sizes
From: Gary Stark

Question : One of the first things I did to my '48 when I got it was fuse the elec. system. I put a 10 amp fuse in line with the plus side of the batt. I have just finished installing a pair of spots on the bike, wired into the high beam line. With the high beam on when I turn on the second spot I blow the fuse, is 10 amp too small with these three lites on (its still a 6 volt system). Any ideas?

On every bike we restore, we place an inline automatic resetting 30amp circuit breaker, on the negative side of the battery, to ground. This allows, any short to be caught by the circuit breaker.

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